Download this sewing pattern here
Prepare the pattern
Once you’ve decided on the size, buy the pattern and download it from the link you’ll be given after checkout.
Print the downloaded file at the print size indicated (A4 or A3).
Please note that we cannot offer refunds for orders placed in the wrong print size.
Cut out the pattern along the cutting lines (---cut here---). Be sure to cut out the triangular sections (the notches) as well.
- 【 notch 】
- A mark used to align fabric pieces when layering them together.
Apply interfacing to the fabric
This time we’ll apply 5 mm-thick foam padding to the fabric. This step isn’t required, but we recommend it because it gives a more polished finish.
If you use a fabric glue like “Saiho Jozu,” it can soak through and stiffen the right side of the fabric, so we recommend using spray adhesive instead.
After spraying the adhesive, if possible, place a weight on the fabric to press it firmly into place.
Cut out the fabric
Fold the foam-padded fabric in half and lay out Outer A–D.
Place them so the nap (direction of the pile) of the fabric lines up with the “grainline arrow” on the pattern.
Once positioned, roughly divide the fabric into sections to make cutting easier.
If the pattern says “×2,” cut 2 pieces of that same part.
If it says “×1,” cut just 1 piece.
If the pattern is marked “(one left and one right),” flip the pattern over before cutting it out.
Be sure to cut out the triangular sections (the notches) of the pattern as well.
Once you’ve cut the required number of each piece, cut out the lining in the same way.
Lining A and B are the same shape, so you can cut them out stacked together.
The placement marks shown with dotted lines differ between them.
Sew the outer
Layer the two Outer A pieces with right sides together, clip them in place, and sew along the clipped section.
- 【 right sides together 】
- Layering two pieces of fabric with their right sides facing each other.
Layer Outer B and C with right sides together, clip them in place, and sew the 3 edges together to form a ring.
If you’d like to add an emblem or mark to the front of the hat, attach it now, or you can glue it on after the hat is finished.
Layer the two Outer D pieces with right sides together, clip them in place, and sew along the clipped section.
Once the edges are sewn, turn it right side out and sew 2–3 mm from the edge of the opening.
Layer Outer B/C with Outer D as shown in the photo, and sew 2–3 mm from the edge to baste them in place.
Layer Outer A with Outer B/C/D as shown in the photo, and sew all the way around the hat.
If the triangular notches don’t line up, you may have the front and back of Outer A mixed up, so check the orientation.
The outer is now complete.
Sew the lining
Cut out the inside of the dotted line on Lining A with scissors.
Once cut, layer it onto the right side of the fabric and trace the inside of the frame with a fabric marker to transfer the marks.
Mark Lining B in the same way. Mark it on the right side of the fabric as well.
Draw lines on Lining C just like on the pattern. (All the lines are 7 mm apart.)
This time, mark the wrong side of the fabric.
Once the lines are drawn, fold back the top and bottom seam allowances of Lining C and position it on top of Lining A as shown in the photo.
Place it so the “right side of the frame” drawn on Lining A lines up with the left line of Lining C.
Once positioned, sew along the yellow line in the photo.
Fold the right side of Lining C into a double-fold hem and topstitch it.
Layer Lining D with right sides together and sew a U-shape around the edges.
Once you’ve sewn the U-shape, trim the corners with scissors, turn it right side out, and the belt is complete.
Prepare a 25 mm-wide hook-and-loop fastener, cut it to a length of 6 cm, then round off the corners with scissors.
You can also use it as is without trimming the corners.
Next, cut a 15–20 mm-wide flat elastic to a length of 11 cm.
Insert a pin 5 cm from the end of the belt, then thread the flat elastic in from the opening on the opposite side. Push the flat elastic all the way in until it reaches the pin.
Pin the flat elastic so it can’t slip out, then position the hook-and-loop fastener aligned with the left side of the belt.
If the elastic is pushed all the way in, the flat elastic and the fastener will overlap as shown in the photo.
Sew all the way around the fastener.
For the fastener on the belt, use the “rough, scratchy side” (the hook side).
Once sewn, pull the elastic out with tweezers or similar and sew it together with the end of the belt. The “size-adjustment belt” is now complete.
Once the size-adjustment belt is complete, position it on Lining A as shown in the photo and sew along the yellow line.
Fold the belt back the other way and sew 5 mm from the end of the belt (along the yellow line).
Fold Lining C back the other way and sew 5 mm from the top and bottom edges (along the yellow line).
Lining A is now complete.
Place the hook-and-loop fastener at the marked position on Lining B and sew it down.
Here you’ll attach the soft side (the loop side).
Fold Lining A and B in half with right sides together, and sew the inner curve (along the yellow line).
Layer Lining A and B with right sides together and clip them to baste in place. Finally, mark the “stop-stitching point” for the opening where you’ll add the stuffing, and leave this section unsewn.
- 【 stop-stitching point 】
- Sewing only up to the marked line.
Sew everything except the stop-stitching point, and the lining is complete.
Sew the outer and lining together
Layer the outer and lining with right sides together and sew all the way around.
Turn the whole thing right side out through the lining opening.
Sew 5 mm from the edge around the bottom of the hat, except for the “brim.”
Add the stuffing
Add stuffing through the lining opening.
Stuff only around the sides of the hat, keeping as little stuffing as possible at the crown.
Close the lining opening
Finally, close the lining opening.
Fold the fabric around the opening in by 7 mm and sew it closed.
Your “Structured Cap (Type A)” is complete!
