Igloo-Shaped Plush Hat — Costume Sewing Pattern & DIY Tutorial

Print it on A4 paper at actual size (100%) and check the size against your face. You can download the guide from the link below.

To buy the “Igloo-Shaped Plush Hat” pattern, head to the product page using the button below!

The pattern download link appears on screen right after checkout, and is also sent to you in a separate download email.
If the email doesn’t arrive, please check your spam folder.

Choose either “A4” or “A3” print size and print at actual size (100%).

Please note that we cannot offer refunds for orders placed in the wrong size.

Cut out the pattern along the cutting lines.

Overlap the tabs with matching numbers and tape them together.

Cut out all 7 pieces: Outer A–C and Lining A–D.

Layer interfacing※ onto the fabric you’ll use for the outer. Use one-sided fusible interfacing※.

Place the pattern on top of the outer fabric and interfacing, and cut the fabric and interfacing a little larger than the pattern.

Set the iron to medium heat and dry (no steam), and press to fuse the fabric and interfacing together.

Layer the pattern onto the interfaced fabric and cut along the pattern.

Cut one piece each of Outer B and C in the same way.

Here we use satin for the lining. Cut the lining without applying interfacing.

Cut the darts※ of the Outer A and B patterns as shown in the figure.

※Since the goal is to trace the apex (tip) of the dart, the amount you cut can be rough.

Layer the pattern you cut in step 5-1 onto the fabric, and trace the dart with a fabric marker or similar.

Make snips about 5 mm long at the notches※, the center, and so on. See the figure for where to snip.
When snipping, please be careful not to cut past the stitching line (the dotted line) toward the inside.

Cut the darts of the Lining A and B patterns the same way as the outer.
You’ll also trace the stop-stitching points※ and stitching lines, so cut as shown in the figure.

Layer the pattern you cut in 5-4 onto the fabric, and trace the darts, the stop-stitching points, and the stitching line between the stop-stitching points with a fabric marker or similar.

Snip the notches on the lining as well.

Use an awl or similar to make holes at the corners of the “hook-and-loop placement mark” on Lining A and the “Lining C placement mark” on Lining B.

Place the lining with its right side facing up, then layer the pattern on top of it wrong side up.
Through the holes you made in 5-7, trace the “placement marks” with a fabric marker or similar.

Trace the “Lining C placement mark” on Lining B in the same way.

We recommend tracing all the lines onto Lining C.
You don’t need to trace anything onto Lining D.

Only Lining C and D have a 7 mm seam allowance (all others are 1 cm).
Please keep this in mind when tracing and when sewing.

Fold Lining D with right sides together※ and sew a U-shape.
The seam allowance for Lining D is 7 mm. Please be careful not to mix it up.

Trim the corners of the seam allowance diagonally, then turn it right side out.

Cut a 25 mm-wide hook-and-loop fastener to 6 cm, and round off the corners.

Place the hook side of the fastener at the tip of Lining D and clip it in place.

Cut a 15–20 mm-wide flat elastic to 12 cm and feed it into Lining D.
Overlap the fastener and the elastic by about 1 cm and baste them in place.

Please refer to the blue line for the position of the elastic.

Sew around the fastener. Sew through the end of the elastic inside at the same time to secure it.
Once sewn, pull one end of the elastic out from the other side of Lining D and sew 5 mm from the edge to secure it.

Fold one side of Lining C into a double-fold hem and stitch it.
Once sewn, fold back both sides and clip them in place.

Place Lining B with its right side facing up, and align the “Lining C placement mark” with the line on Lining C.

Place the belt you made in 6-6 on top of Lining C.
With the fastener facing up, layer them so the right edges of Lining C and D line up.
Sew 7 mm from the fabric edge to attach C and D to Lining B.

Fold Lining C and D back to the opposite side, and sew around Lining C in a U-shape.

Place Lining A right side up, position the loop side of the fastener on the “hook-and-loop placement mark,” and sew around it.

Baste the dart on Lining A and sew it with the sewing machine. Sew the dart on Lining B the same way.

Layer Lining A and B with right sides together and sew along the red line in the figure.

Be careful not to sew between the stop-stitching points.
The lining is now complete.

Baste the dart on Outer A and sew it with the sewing machine. Sew the dart on Outer B the same way.

At the dart tip, leave the thread a little long, tie it in a firm knot, and trim the excess.
We use this method because not backstitching at the dart tip gives a cleaner line.
Finish the dart on Outer B the same way.

The lining darts are hidden, so they don’t need this careful a finish.

With right sides together, baste the face opening of Outer A to the face opening of the lining, and sew all the way around the opening.
As you do, baste so that the notches you snipped in 5-3 and 5-6 line up, then sew.

The face opening of the lining is the red line in the figure. Please be careful not to confuse it with the neck opening.

Make snips about 7 mm deep at roughly 1 cm intervals into the seam allowance around the face. Snip all the way around, being careful not to cut the stitching you just sewed.
This keeps the fabric from pulling when you turn it right side out.

With right sides together, baste the neck opening of Outer C to the neck opening of the lining, and sew all the way around the opening.
As before, baste so that the snipped notches line up, then sew.
Once sewn, snip around the opening.

Turn the whole thing right side out through the opening in Outer A, then line up the notches (snips) of Outer A and C and clip them in place.
The notch basted in the video is marked (1) in the figure.

Hold the right side of Outer A and fold it to the left.
Next, hold the right side of Outer C and fold it to the left.

Once the left sides of Outer A and C are sandwiched by the right sides, baste the notches in the figure in the order (1), (2).
Be careful not to catch the left sides of Outer A and C at the same time.

Sew the section you basted in 6-20 (the red line in the figure).
Start sewing 1 cm from the edge so you don’t catch the seam allowance of Outer A.
Be careful not to sew through the left sides of Outer A and C at the same time.

Once sewn, turn the inside-out Outer A and C right side out.

This time, fold the left sides of Outer A and C to the right.
Next, hold the right side of Outer C and fold it to the left.

Once folded, baste the notches in the figure in the order (1), (2).

Sew the remaining half of Outer A and C (the red line in the figure). Sew until it connects with the seam from 6-21.

Once sewn, turn it right side out.
Outer A and C are now fully sewn together.

Layer Outer A and B with right sides together, clip to baste, and sew all the way around (the red line in the figure).

Layer Outer B and C with right sides together, and baste the notches in the figure in the order (1), (2), (3).

Sew the section you basted in 6-26 (the red line in the figure).

Reach in through the lining opening and turn the whole hat right side out.

Add stuffing through the lining opening.
We recommend lightweight 100% polyester fiberfill.

Start stuffing from under the chin, adding more while checking the overall balance.
Try the hat on as you go and adjust the amount of stuffing.

Fold the edges around the lining opening in by 1 cm and baste, then sew along the fabric edge to close the opening.

Tuck the lining into place and you’re done.

You can also adjust the fit with the belt on the lining.
If the hat shifts when you wear it, adjust the belt.